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This page
introduces you to some woodcarving projects, both relief and
in the round, for you to try.
You could print the page, laminate it and keep it to hand as
you work and build up a personal collection of projects to
your liking. These projects may be used for teaching or newsletter
purposes provided you acknowledge Zoe as the author and you
do not accept any payment by using them. 1. How to Carve an Ivy Leaf in Relief
You will need two or three no 3 gouges of widths such as
1/4in and 1/2in and maybe 1/8in, a 1/4in 60° V tool (known as a no 39), a
wooden mallet, a flat piece of straight grained wood such as sycamore or
lime and some means of securing this so it does not move as you are working.
Recommended carving tools can be purchased from
www.ashleyiles.co.uk |
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| 1. Pick a couple of nicely shaped ivy
leaves to use as templates, arrange and fasten
them on to the wood using small pieces of masking tape and draw
round them using a soft pencil. Rest the wood on a non
slip mat or in a vice so it cannot move as you cut. |
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2. Cut round the drawn outline with a 60 degree
V tool using the tool with a mallet so you can control the cuts
accurately. Cut in the direction so that the leaf edge is clean
- you might find it helpful to practice on scrap wood
first. Do not cut the stalk lines yet. |
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| 3. Use the no 3 gouge of appropriate width, turning
it
so that its curvature corresponds with the leaf shape. Lean
the tool against the slope of the V channel and cut down and
outwards, away from the leaf edge. When you have been all round, use
the widest gouge with its bevel down and cut towards the leaf so
these cuts now meet the previous ones cleanly and form a deeper and
wider V channel than that cut by the V tool. Repeat the sets of cuts two or
three times to widen and deepen the channel. |
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4. Now remove the background
adjacent to the leaf edge, starting the first cut into the V
channel then gradually lengthening and overlapping these cuts from
the leaf. You should always cut towards the leaf itself when
removing the background. Do not start too far back or you may split
the wood ahead of the cutting edge of the gouge, and spoil the leaf. |
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5. Where leaves overlap, use the same
channelling techniques and reduce the adjacent surface of the leaf so it is
lower than the edge of the upper leaf. Pare the surfaces of both
leaves so that they undulate, then mark in the veins and stalks with
the V tool. Finish the carving with a coat of clear wax polish. Do
not sand it because you will lose the crispness of the carving.
copyright Zoe Gertner |
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Project 2. Starting
a Carving in the Round Carving a Tortoise.
For the initial shaping you will need a deep gouge such as a 3/8in
no 9 followed by two or three no 3 gouges of widths such as 3/4in,
1/2in and 1/4in, and a 1/4in 60° V tool, a
wooden mallet, and a scraper for finishing. A Surform or other rasp,
or plane will be useful. The carving will need to be held securely in a wood
vice whilst you are carving. To make a larger version than the
example, use wider gouges with the same
sweep/numbers.
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1. Use an axe to split a log lengthwise and
flatten the base of the tortoise. This can be done using a plane, Surform, Shinto
rasp or microplane tool, or wide no 3 gouge and mallet. My
tortoise is about 2in long from a branch of
Laburnum, chosen so that the contrasting colours of the
heart and sapwood will contrast between the
shell and the body of the tortoise when finished. You could use Yew wood
to similar effect, or any log from the firewood pile if is
sound and straight grained. |
| 2. Using your deepest gouge with
a mallet, round off both ends of the log, cutting away from
it and lifting your gouge hand as you cut. When rounded
over, smooth off the convex surfaces with your widest no 3
gouge, alternatively you could use the Surform,
microplane or Shinto rasp for this. |
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3. In the middle of the
underneath scoop out a gentle hollow so that the belly is
raised up from the outer edge. Then avoiding the corners,
remove the surface between the front and back legs so that
it stands on 4 small areas, the feet, one at each corner. |
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4. Reduce the shell surface behind the head,
tail and legs so they project from the shell. Shape the head and tail with the no 3
gouges. Your tortoise should now be standing on all 4 feet
and have a pointed tail and blunt head .
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5. Draw and cut with a V tool the edge of the shell round the
tortoise and above the head and the tail. Work from the middle of each side towards the
top of the head / tail so you are working with the grain.
Reduce the surface of the head, tail and legs adjacent to
the V line so the shell rests upon these. You can see
the colour contrast between the lighter shell and darker
body, ie the heart and the sapwood of the branch. |
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6. Cut indents along the edge of
the shell to make it scalloped and mark the features on the
head with the V tool. The claws on the feet are also marked
using the V tool. |
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7. Using a scraper, clean up the
surface of the shell so it is really smooth, taking care to
scrape with the grain as you do this. Finish the
carving with a coat of wax polish and buff to a nice
sheen with a duster.
Copyright Zoe Gertner |
I hope you have enjoyed these
projects. If you would like to see any other
aspects of woodcarving on this page, please contact me
via the feedback page. The
instructions above are very basic, but for tuition in
greater depth, why not consider coming on a wood carving course?
Or if you are a member of a group perhaps a
workshop in Devon as part
of your club calendar?
You can find more projects to follow in my book
'Woodcarving
- A Foundation Course' details...
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